Midsize Woman

After spending nearly a month exploring Southern Vietnam, I crossed the border at Kon Tum into Laos and landed in Pakse.

It felt like I had stepped into another rhythm of life entirely. No horns. No rush. Just wide open roads, green plateaus, and the gentle hum of small-town Lao life.

With two of Laos’ legendary motorbike loops (Pakse Loop & Thakhek Loop), ample time for digital detox or remote work, and soft landings in cultural hubs like Luang Prabang and Vientiane, this itinerary is built for thoughtful travelers, solo wanderers, or digital nomads seeking depth.

I traveled this route over three weeks with my backpack, my laptop, and no fixed expectations and I’m so glad I did.

Route Overview: 21-Day Laos Slow Travel Itinerary

Region	Days	Focus
Pakse	7	City exploration + 4-day Bolaven Loop
Thakhek	7	City exploration + 4-day Thakhek Loop
Luang Prabang	3	Culture, waterfalls, temples
Vang Vieng	2	Nature, caves, riverside chill
Vientiane	2	Wrap-up, rest, and fly out

Week 1: Pakse & the Bolaven Plateau Loop

Days 1–2: Explore Pakse

Crossing from Vietnam into Laos at the Kontum–Bo Y–Attapeu border, the first thing I noticed was the quiet. Pakse, my landing spot, felt unbothered by time. It’s not flashy, but it’s quite.

Pakse, the southern gateway to Laos, may not be flashy but give it a day and it opens up. It’s walkable, affordable, and perfectly placed near some of the country’s most scenic highlands.

Before rushing off into the wild, it’s worth grounding yourself in Pakse. The city is small, walkable, and has a riverfront charm that’s easy to miss if you treat it like a stopover.

Things to do in Pakse:

• Wat Phou Salao at Sunset – A giant golden Buddha overlooking the Mekong. The climb is worth it, especially when the sky turns pink and the city lights blink on.
• Dao Heuang Market – It’s chaotic, gritty, and real. Locals shop here for everything from spices to secondhand clothes.
• Riverside Wandering – Grab a fruit shake or iced Lao coffee and just sit by the water. Let the humidity and slowness settle into your bones.
• Massage & Reset – There are good $6–8 massages near the city center (check for AC if it’s mid-afternoon).

Tip: Buy a Lao SIM right away. I used Unitel, coverage held up even in the mountains later on.

Days 3–6: Riding the Bolaven Plateau Loop

This loop is a highlight of southern Laos, a scenic motorbike route through misty highlands, waterfalls, coffee farms, and minority villages. You can ride it solo or book a driver if you’re not comfortable on two wheels.

Day 3 – Pakse → Tad Lo (~90km)

Leave around mid-morning to beat the heat. The roads are decent, and the scenery shifts quickly from city to forest.

Where to stay:

• Sipasert Guesthouse – Budget-friendly, with bungalow options by the river.
• Mama Pap’s Homestay – Famous among backpackers for her banana pancakes.

What to do:

• Swim near Tad Lo Waterfall.
• Coffee farm.

Day 4 – Tad Lo → Paksong (~100km)

This stretch takes you deeper into the plateau.

Don’t miss:

• Tad Champee – Underrated, less touristy, and surrounded by jungle.
• Tad E-Tu – Swim-friendly and worth the short detour.
• CC 1971 Coffee in Paksong – Ethical brews with a purpose.

Where to stay:

• Paksong View Guesthouse – Simple, quiet, cool air at night.

Day 5 – Paksong → Tad Fane → Tad Yuang → Lak 38 (~70–90km)

This is waterfall day! Both of these falls are near each other and well set up for visitors.

Tad Fane – Two massive waterfalls plunging into a forested canyon. Best viewed from the clifftop café.
Tad Yuang – Great for photos and a dip (bring a sarong to change modestly).

Sleep in Lak 38 or push onward to the edge of Pakse if you’re confident riding at dusk.

Day 6 – Return to Pakse

Take your time heading back. This is a good day to detour through small roadside villages or stop for random noodle soups along the way.

Bike Rentals:

• Miss Noy Motorbike Rental – They give the best pre-loop briefing in town.

Bring: sunscreen, rain poncho, power bank, water bottle, and your best playlist (there’s no signal in parts).

Day 7: Rest & Reset in Pakse

After the loop, you’ll want a day off. Sleep in. Get your laundry done. Grab a cold coconut and sit by the river with a book. You’ve earned it.

Remote workers: I found decent Wi-Fi at Sanga Hostel and Daolin Café if you need to check in or upload your travel photos.

Week 1 Summary – Pakse & The Bolaven Plateau Loop

Day	Location	Activities	Notes & Tips
Day 1	Pakse	Arrive from Vietnam, riverside walk, local dinner	Buy SIM card (Unitel), exchange currency, settle in slowly
Day 2	Pakse	Wat Phou Salao sunset, Dao Heuang Market, massage	Walk or Grab tuk-tuk; dress modestly for temples
Day 3	Pakse → Tad Lo	Begin Bolaven Loop, visit Tad Lo waterfall, village homestay	Easy ride day; stay at Mama Pap’s or Sipasert
Day 4	Tad Lo → Paksong	Tad Champee & E-Tu waterfalls, coffee tastings in Paksong	Visit Jhai Coffee; roads are winding but scenic
Day 5	Paksong → Lak 38	Tad Fane & Tad Yuang waterfalls, overnight near Lak 38	Don’t swim near strong currents; carry snacks and cash
Day 6	Return to Pakse	Easy ride back, optional stops at roadside villages and noodle stalls	Return bike before sunset; tip rental if all went well
Day 7	Pakse	Rest day, laundry, riverside café time, remote work if needed	Good Wi-Fi at Sanga Hostel or Daolin Café

Week 2: Thakhek & The Karst Country Loop

Days 8–14

After the waterfalls and cool breezes of the Bolaven Plateau, I took a slow travel day north toward Thakhek, a sleepy riverside town best known as the launch point for the Thakhek Loop, a rugged, beautiful, and sometimes bumpy ride through caves, cliffs, and remote villages. It’s wilder than the Bolaven Plateau, but equally worth it if not more.

Day 8: Travel Day – Pakse to Thakhek

This is a full day in motion. I took a mini bus (~8 hours) from Pakse to Thakhek, arriving in the early evening. You could also split it by stopping overnight in Savannakhet, but I chose to ride it out in one go.

Where to stay in Thakhek:

• La Casa Thakhek – Charming courtyard guesthouse, solid Wi-Fi, quiet vibe
• Inthira Thakhek – A bit more upscale, with an on-site restaurant and coworking-friendly seating

Tip: Book your transport at least one day in advance, especially if you’re traveling on a weekend. The station is informal and English is minimal.

Day 9: Chill Day in Thakhek

Before tackling the loop, I gave myself one full day to explore and rest.

What to do:

• Riverwalk at Sunset – Grab a coconut or iced coffee and stroll the Mekong riverside promenade
• DDC Coffee – Excellent espresso, great for planning your loop
• Buddha Cave (Tham Pa Fa) – Discovered only in 2004, this cave houses over 200 ancient Buddha statues. A gentle tuk-tuk ride away
• Local eats – Try spicy laap, fresh spring rolls, and cold Beerlao at the night market

Prepping for the Loop:
Check your bike (or driver) and pack light, dry bags, snacks, flashlight, and offline maps are your friends.

Days 10–13: Riding the Thakhek Loop

More rugged than the Bolaven route, this loop winds through dramatic limestone karsts, flooded valleys, and small villages. Expect potholes, jungle silence, and the occasional water buffalo traffic jam.

Day 10 – Thakhek → Thalang (~110 km)

A smooth, scenic start. You’ll pass the Khammouane limestone formations, and can stop at:

• Tham Nang Aen Cave – Colorful, big, and lit with LED lights (a bit kitschy but fun)
• Elephant Cave – Small but sacred
• Overnight in Thalang, where the views over the lake at dusk are unreal

Where to stay:

• Phosy Thalang Guesthouse – Friendly, lakeside, generator-powered at night
• Sabaidee Guesthouse – Backpacker favorite with social dinners

Day 11 – Thalang → Nahin (~120 km)

This day felt the most remote. Expect dirt roads, crumbling bridges, and long stretches without fuel so fill up when you can.

• Ride through the Nakai Plateau, lush, quiet, beautiful
• Cross wooden bridges and pass local villages; wave back
• Arrive in Nahin, a sleepy village at the edge of Kong Lor Cave

Day 12 – Kong Lor Cave Adventure

Kong Lor Cave is the star of the loop, 7.5 kilometers of pitch-black river cave you cross in a wooden boat.

What to expect:

• Life jackets and headlamps provided
• Water can get thigh-high in places
• Halfway through, you disembark to see dramatic formations
• It’s cool, magical, and a little eerie (in the best way)

Tip: Pack dry bags for your gear and shoes you don’t mind getting soaked.

Day 13 – Nahin → Thakhek (~180 km)

A longer ride home, but smooth asphalt most of the way. I stopped for lunch at a roadside noodle stall, refueled in small towns, and was back in Thakhek by mid-afternoon.

Return your bike, grab a cold drink, and toast to surviving potholes and cave bats.

Day 14: Rest & Remote Work in Thakhek

I stayed an extra day to do laundry, catching up with work, and recharge. The vibe here is so low-key, it’s ideal for slow living.

Remote-friendly cafés:

• Rok Coffee – Quiet with strong Wi-Fi
• Yonko Cafe – Great for laptop work with a view

Week 2 Summary – Thakhek & The Karst Country Loop

Day	Location	Activities	Notes & Tips
Day 8	Pakse → Thakhek	Travel by VIP sleeper bus, settle into guesthouse	Book tickets ahead; arrive early evening; quiet town good for rest
Day 9	Thakhek	Explore riverwalk, Buddha Cave, local market, café hopping	Rest day before loop; charge devices; buy snacks and water
Day 10	Thakhek → Thalang	Start loop; visit Tham Nang Aen Cave and Elephant Cave; overnight by lake	Smooth roads; cave visits; lakeside guesthouse recommended
Day 11	Thalang → Nahin	Remote riding through Nakai Plateau, local villages, rustic bridges	Fill fuel tanks; prepare for dirt roads; expect sparse services
Day 12	Nahin	Kong Lor Cave boat tour (7.5 km river cave)	Bring dry bags; waterproof shoes; headlamp and life jackets provided
Day 13	Nahin → Thakhek	Return ride; scenic stops; bike return	Longer ride but mostly paved; eat roadside; relax on return
Day 14	Thakhek	Rest day, laundry, remote work	Wi-Fi cafes like DDC Coffee and Inthira Lounge ideal for working

Week 3: Vientiane, Luang Prabang & Vang Vieng

Days 15–17: Vientiane

After long riding days, Vientiane is the perfect place to slow down. The vibe is gentle, the pace relaxed, and the riverside sunsets are worth lingering over.

Things to Do:

• Pha That Luang: Laos’ most sacred stupa. Visit in the morning for golden light and fewer crowds.
• COPE Visitor Centre: A must-see to understand Laos’ UXO history and local rehabilitation work.
• Mekong River promenade: Join locals for an evening walk and grab dinner from street food stalls.
• Patuxai Victory Monument: A climbable Arc de Triomphe with panoramic views.

Getting Around:
Vientiane is very walkable, but tuk-tuks are cheap and abundant. Agree on fares before hopping in (expect 20,000–30,000 LAK for short rides).

Where to Stay:
Stay near the Mekong riverfront for easy access to evening markets and riverside walks. Options like Salana Boutique Hotel or Green Park Boutique Hotel offer comfort and good Wi-Fi.

Days 18–19: Luang Prabang

A UNESCO World Heritage town, Luang Prabang is a peaceful haven of golden temples, French colonial charm, and gentle river life.

Highlights & Tips:

• Morning Alms Ceremony: Arrive before dawn (around 5:30–6:00 am) to respectfully observe or participate. Bring sticky rice to offer, dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees), and avoid flash photography.
• Mount Phousi: Best visited at sunrise or sunset; wear comfortable shoes for the 300-step climb, and carry water. The view of the Mekong’s winding curves is worth the effort.
• Kuang Si Falls: Go early to beat crowds; bring a swimsuit, towel, and insect repellent. There’s a bear rescue center nearby worth a quick visit. Food stalls sell sticky rice and grilled meats.
• Night Market: Runs daily from about 5 pm; look for handwoven textiles and wood carvings as souvenirs. Try local snacks like khao niao ping (grilled sticky rice) or laap (spicy minced meat salad).

Getting There:
Vientiane to Luang Prabang is best done by plane (1 hr) or new high-speed train (approx. 2 hrs).

Where to Stay:
Look for guesthouses or boutique hotels along the Mekong riverfront (e.g., My Dream Boutique Resort or The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel), which often have great Wi-Fi and relaxing balconies or hammocks for downtime.

Days 20–21: Vang Vieng

Once famous for its backpacker party scene, Vang Vieng has transformed into an eco-friendly destination surrounded by stunning karst landscapes and outdoor activities.

Activities & Tips:

• Blue Lagoon: Entry fee is modest (~20,000 LAK). Go early on weekdays to avoid crowds. Wear water shoes for rocky bottoms. Cliff jumping spots vary in height, so test carefully.
• Tham Phu Kham Cave: The hike up is steep but short (~20 minutes). Bring a flashlight if you want to explore deeper inside beyond the Buddha.
• Kayaking on Nam Song River: Rentals are available by the hour or day. Choose calm sections if you prefer relaxed paddling. Don’t forget sunscreen and a dry bag for valuables.
• Cycling: Roads are generally flat with some hills. Stop in villages for fresh fruit or to chat with locals.

Food & Drink:
Try tam mak hoong (green papaya salad) at local markets. Vang Vieng also has a surprising number of vegetarian-friendly cafes and restaurants offering fresh smoothies and healthy meals.

Transport & Stay:
Rent scooters or bicycles for flexibility. Guesthouses along the river (like Riverside Boutique Resort) offer quiet mornings and stunning views.

Days 22: Return Vientiane and Fly out

After a few days in the mountains, heading back to Vientiane by bus gives you a scenic ride through Laos’ countryside rolling hills, small villages, and plenty of time to reflect on the journey.

Vang Vieng to Vientiane by bus or minivan takes around 3.5 to 4.5 hours, depending on traffic and the operator.

• Most buses leave in the morning (8–11 AM) and arrive by mid-afternoon.
• You can book through your guesthouse, local travel agents, or sites like 12Go Asia.
• Some “VIP” buses offer AC and a quick snack, though “VIP” is… Laos-style.

Additional Practical Tips for Week 3:

• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is generally reliable in hotels and cafés in these cities, but it’s wise to have a local SIM card (Unitel or Lao Telecom) for data and maps.
• Cash: ATMs are common in Luang Prabang and Vientiane but scarce in Vang Vieng, so withdraw enough cash before leaving bigger towns. Lao Kip (LAK) is the currency; USD may be accepted in some places but always confirm the exchange rate.
• Health & Safety: Tap water isn’t safe to drink; stick to bottled water. Use mosquito repellent, especially near rivers and in the evenings.
• Packing: Light layers, good walking shoes, modest clothes for temple visits, rain jacket (depending on season), and sunscreen are must-haves.
• Cultural Etiquette: Always greet with a slight bow and a smile. Remove shoes before entering temples, and avoid public displays of affection.

Final Thought

Taking the time to explore Laos at a slow, mindful pace is one of the best ways to experience this beautiful Southeast Asian country. Whether you’re wandering the charming streets of Luang Prabang, cycling the stunning Thakhek Loop, or relaxing along the Mekong River in Vientiane, slow travel allows you to truly connect with the local culture, nature, and history.

This Laos itinerary is perfect for travelers who want to avoid the crowds and dive deeper into authentic experiences. Remember to plan plenty of rest days to recharge, and embrace the relaxed pace that makes Laos such a rewarding slow travel destination.

So if you’re looking for a unique adventure filled with cultural immersion, natural beauty, and genuine connections, Laos slow travel should definitely be on your bucket list. Pack your bags, take it slow, and get ready for an unforgettable journey!